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I think I may have found the CNC mill that I would like to use to cut out all the parts for my bartender project. It’s called the Shapeoko 2. This seems like it will do anything from cutting out aluminum parts, to copper printed circuit boards. It cuts plastics too which can be useful. You are only limited by your imagination.
This is an update to a previous version of the Shapeoko machine. They are currently taking pre-orders and it will be shipped around December 21st, 2013. The price is right too. A complete setup is only $649. This is also completely open source so if I decided to add features to it later, I could. It is based on Arduino and comes with the software already loaded.
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I ran across this related project today. Not quite as complicated but still something fun!
I like the use of an ultra-sonic sensor to sense when a person is standing in front of it. However I could see this getting annoying if you were just passing by. It’s also a nice refresher on how to use MOSFET’s to boost current needs for brighter LED’s. Since the Arduino can only pump out about 40mA per channel, using MOSFET’s with a separate power supply is a great way to get those super bright LED’s what they need to shine. He also used a nice Arduino prototype shield to solder his components together.
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It has been a while since my last post. I have been extremely busy lately and haven’t had any time to add anything new to the blog.
Even though I am not posting, I am constantly brainstorming new ideas for this project. Here is one that I came across today:
My original idea was to use a simple 4 by 20 character LCD display for the user interface of the bartender. It would be a good start for me, since I don’t have much experience with display programming, but once I am comfortable with the code, this addition would take it to the next level.
The Gameduino 2 shield would not only be a fun challenge to program, it would also be a much more aesthetically pleasing interface for users. The possibilities are almost endless for how sophisticated the interface could be. Some ideas that come to mind are:
The Gameduino 2 shield for the Arduino is on Kickstarter and is still in the process of being funded. The funding backers will get their shipments in December of this year, so hopefully I can get my hands on one early 2014. I may pitch in the $59 on Kickstarter to get one in December instead.
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It has been a while since my last post. I have been really busy lately. My latest progress has been on the layout of the electronics box that will be mounted to the back of the machine. I chose to contain all the fragile electronics within one box to minimize the amount of wire required to connect the circuit boards together, as well as protect it all from liquids. The box will be oriented with the ventilation fans on the bottom so that if a liquid spills on the box, it wont make its way inside. The ATX power supply is shown at the right of the box, this may be moved to the bottom as well to avoid liquid spillage. The Arduinos and power distribution board can be seen inside the box. I will drill smaller holes in the bottom and line them with rubber gaskets to run wires in and out much like the firewall of a car.
After watching some more instructional videos on using Eagle CAD, I am happy to say that I have designed my first double sided PCB. The free version of Eagle that I have only allows for about 4 inch by 5 inch PCB’s. So I had a lot of cramming to do and ended up having to have a second layer of copper. I am very happy with how this turned out. Now I just have to find a good price for some cooper clad PCB boards so I can start getting them etched!
Starting from the left, the ATX power supply connector will plug into the board. Using an ATX power supply is the easiest way for me to get the voltages I need to run my machine, and it should provide the current requirements. Next are the power switches for turning the different voltages on and off. I also included a PS_ON switch to turn the power supply on and off manually. Next are the fuses for circuit protection. I haven’t decided how big these fuses will be yet. Power jacks are on the far right that will connect to the other electrical devices. Along the top are status LED’s that indicate which voltages are turned on. I also included voltage status output headers so that I can have status LED’s mounted to the side of the case for viewing while the case is closed.
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Ed Nisley's Blog: shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, and curiosities
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Science for crazy people with too much time